Muslin revival: Private sector comes into play

The project for the revival of muslin is to commence with the second phase from July. It aims to motivate and include the private sector in the revival of this fine fabric. According to the Ministry of Textiles and Jute, the proposed expenditure for this second phase has been estimated as Tk 295 million (Tk 29 crore 50 lakh).

Prior to granting private organisations the permission to produce muslin, experts are placing emphasis on developing necessary guidelines. They feel the balance between government and private sectors should be maintained and the quality control mechanism has to be strengthened for private sector production. They also think that  training is a prerequisite before the production is open for private initiatives.

The prime minister has stated that research is being carried out so that the pricing of muslin can be done in compliance with the buying capacity of the people.

This second phase will continue for three years commencing from July 2023 to July 2026. This stage will include continuation of the extensive research works to ensure the sustainability of the newly revived muslin production process. Among other vital issues, capacity building through necessary training programmes, and creating as well as expanding the market for muslin, should be given serious consideration.

According to the plan, the second phase will need Tk 98.81 million (Tk 9 crore 88 lakhs and 10 thousand) in the first year (fiscal year 2023-24) and then Tk 95.4 million (Tk 9 crore 54 lakhs) in the fiscal year 2024-25 and finally Tk 101.1 million (Tk 10 crore 11 lakhs) in the fiscal year 2025-26.

In this respect a meeting was held on 14 June 2022 by the steering committee of the textiles and jute ministry. In the meeting,  it was decided that the sectors where emphasis would be given in the second phase include the continuation of the research to enhance the existing breeds and develop newer breeds of phuti carpas cotton and their cultivation, training programmes and technical support for entrepreneurs, innovative research  in order to find better and modernised techniques for muslin production and make these sustainable.

It was also unanimously agreed in the meeting that it is absolutely necessary to arrange exhibitions and take substantial steps for necessary dissemination to create potential market for muslin within the country and beyond. And last but not the least, it is high time we reestablish the lost pride of this very special heritage textile of ours.  

The goal is to make the most out of the funds granted for the project along with the budget cut considering the present situation,  said Md. Abdur Rouf, secretary of the ministry, speaking about the funding for the second phase. The present director of this project said the report on the preliminary proposal for the second phase has been resubmitted after editing according to feedback from the ministry. 

The first phase of the project is expected to be completed with the submission of the project completion report ( PCR). But in the meantime an independent and neutral committee selected and formed by the government has evaluated the first phase of muslin revival project. This committee comprises of the convener Md Abul Kashem, the Vice Chancellor of Textile University, Rakhohari Sarker, Professor, Department of Botany, University of Dhaka and  renowned artist and educationist Bulbon Osman.

The second phase will be an extension of the first phase itself. Because after identification of phuti carpas in the first stage, seeds are produced from it and cotton is cultivated from those seeds. Considering the importance of genetic modification for the commercial cultivation of this cotton, Mohammad Ayub Ali said that if this cotton plant is to be cultivated naturally, apart from reducing its height, the number of cotton seeds per unit should also be reduced. Only then the production will be profitable. This type of development process is long-term and it will continue in the second phase as well.

Arrangements have been made for cotton cultivation in Kapasia, Sreepur and Rajshahi where 20 bighas land are allotted for each area. The estimated cost for cotton cultivation per bigha is Tk 40,000.  Water and machinery support  will be provided to attract farmers. Later this cotton will be bought by the handloom board at the market price.

In addition to the acquisition of land for cotton cultivation, secretary Md. Abdur Rouf said leasing instead of acquiring land for phuti carpas cultivation is more feasible . He said, it is practical to establish not only a separate laboratory for muslin, but also a common laboratory for training at the Muslin House instead of going for any new  construction at the moment.

Mohammad Ayub Ali said that emphasis should be given on the production process in the second phase. Timely steps should be taken including providing necessary supports to motivate the farmers, increase skilled manpower for yarn and cloth production, improve the equipment and encourage the private sector.

Meanwhile, the matter of workshops to motivate private entrepreneurs is under consideration, said the secretary. However, proper policies must be put in place to encourage the private sector to produce muslin.

Again, ample supply of seeds is important for the growth of cotton cultivation. Ayub Ali said, subject to the permission of the Department of Seeds, the seeds will be supplied by the Cotton Development Board. In this context, he added, the yield of cotton is twice a year. February-March-April and August-September-October. A total of 500 grams of cotton can be obtained from each plant. An application for a GI of phuti carpas cotton seed has also been filed.

After 170 years, on 12 October 2014, the revival project of muslin was taken at the behest of the prime minister. On 12 June 2018, the first phase of the project was approved. And on 1 November, the muslin revival programme officially began. The cost of this stage is estimated at Tk 121 million (Tk 12 crore 10 lakh). However, the total cost of  preliminary research, recovery of phuti carpas, cotton cultivation, cutting, spinning, weaving is Tk 39 million (Tk 3 crore 90 lakhs). With the rest of the money, the Muslin House was built on 3.49 acres of land in Rupganj. The laboratory will be built in the Jamdani village right next to it.

The most important achievements in the first phase of the muslin revival project were the discovery of phuti carpas, DNA analysis and successful cultivation of this cotton. Bangladesh Textile Board and Botany Department of Rajshahi University have made special contributions in this regard.

Spinning is the most important step in the process of producing  muslin fabric . In the first phase, 316 out of 350 skilled spinners or katunis have been produced as per the target. For this, girls aged 18-30 have been trained as spinners in 7 training centers in Cumilla. The target is expected to be achieved before the end of this phase. The finest yarn ever achieved is 731 metric count. However, to maintain the efficiency of these spinners, regular eye examinations are required.

No regular efforts are observed. At least 15 spinners are required to continue working regularly to supply the necessary yarn to keep a loom running. Meanwhile, there is tension about their wages. At present, a spinner and a weaver earn 500 taka per day. And apprentices get 250 taka per day. However, experts are in favour of increasing wages to maintain the quality of work. Because, they think, spinners need sharp vision, focus and patience.

Ayub Ali said that the yarn used in the best muslin woven during the British period was of maximum 500 counts. At that time, the reeds were from 1,600 to 2,400. Compared to that now as the yarn is getting finer, the number of reeds has also increased. Now 1, 600 to 2, 800 are currently being used. So it can be said that the revived muslin will be even finer and better in terms of quality.

The special achievements of the first phase include the Geographical Indication or GI certification for "Dhakai Muslin" which was issued on 17 June 2021. Again, this project has received the Public Administration Award as the best organisation in the organisational category at the national level