Jamdani: Diversification is the key to going global
When it comes to Bangladesh’s heritage textiles, jamdani undeniably stands as the finest. Long after muslin faded into history, its legacy persisted, upheld by the artistry of jamdani. However, the global recognition of this craft, which is currently limited to sarees, demands a bold step—product diversification.
The joy of globalising a heritage textile lies not only in its economic prospects but also in its cultural significance. By creatively presenting jamdani in diverse forms, it is possible to both honour its rich tradition and broaden its appeal in international markets. This requires innovation in design, compelling storytelling, partnerships, and ethical practices.
Origins of jamdani
Jamdani, the last iteration of muslin, owes its origins to Persian weavers brought to Bengal during Mughal Emperor Jahangir’s reign (1605–1627). These weavers trained local artisans, blending Persian influences with indigenous skills. Jamdani’s distinctive feature lies in its hand-woven floral motifs, earning it the name figured muslin.
Initially, jamdani was woven as fabric pieces for the nobility—thaan kapor (yardage cloth)—rather than sarees, which were not the attire of that era. Over time, jamdani evolved into the epitome of saree craftsmanship, celebrated for its intricate designs and delicate textures. By the time muslin faded from prominence, jamdani had cemented its place in both fabric and saree form.
Diversification: Ensuring jamdani’s survival
In today’s globalised market, the survival of jamdani hinges on product diversification. Unlike mass-market sarees, jamdani is a premium product that demands innovative approaches to sustain demand. The solution lies in creating a diverse range of jamdani-based products that can resonate with global audiences.
Pioneering efforts in diversification
As early as the 1980s, designer Nilufar Jahan Bably introduced jamdani into new domains by creating jamdani kurtas. These kurtas, sold by the Malibagh-based brand Champak, showcased the potential for innovation. Yet, since then, efforts to expand jamdani beyond sarees, kurtas, and a few stoles and tops have remained limited. The diversified products made of jamdani are not up to the mark. Now is the time to design and produce modern, globally appealing products using Jamdani fabric.
Modernising designs while preserving originality
Modernising jamdani does not mean abandoning its traditional motifs. Instead, contemporary layouts and patterns following international color trend can be integrated while preserving its essence. International design and color trends can also be leveraged to enhance its appeal. However, this requires producing jamdani as yardage fabric, avoiding the unscientific approach of cutting sarees to repurpose them for other products.
Collaboration with designers
Globally, designers have played a pivotal role in rejuvenating and diversifying heritage textiles. They work in harmony with artisans to maintain the authenticity of traditional crafts while creating new products. In Bangladesh, however, designers often compromise jamdani’s originality by experimenting recklessly with motifs. Moreover, in the name of value addition, surface embellished or ornamented using different value added media. These unlawful practices should be strictly discouraged and gradually prohibited. That is because; the malpractice of threadwork, zardozi, hand paint, block print etc. brutally ruins the jamdani’s classic character and appeal and also undermines its heritage.
To address this, stricter regulations must be enforced to safeguard jamdani’s distinctive character, to preserve its age old motifs and to stop infiltration of motifs by the so called designer. Collaborative initiatives with international brands and designers can open new avenues for innovation and marketing while respecting its legacy.
Expanding beyond apparel
Jamdani’s potential extends far beyond sarees and clothing. It can be integrated into home décor and accessories, such as cushions, wall hangings, bags, curtains, table runners, and even tech accessories. These applications will not only diversify its product range but also attract a broader consumer base.
Sustainable and ethical production
Jamdani weaving has seen resurgence in eco-friendly practices, with a growing preference for natural dyes. Encouraging the use of azo-free dyes can further promote sustainable production. Historically, jamdani was woven with hand-spun cotton, a practice nearly forgotten but now seeing revival. Introducing these sustainable practices can add value and align jamdani with global trends favoring handmade, eco-friendly, and sustainable products.
Storytelling and promotion
The remarkable history of jamdani needs to be shared globally. The narratives of artisans, their traditional weaving techniques, and the socio-cultural significance of this craft must be highlighted. Engaging labels, visually captivating tags, and storytelling through social media—via videos and images—can play a vital role in connecting with global audiences.
Additionally, targeted campaigns should emphasize that jamdani is uniquely Bangladeshi, countering any misappropriation of its heritage.
Leveraging Geographical Indication (GI)
Although jamdani earned Geographical Indication (GI) status in 2016, Bangladesh has yet to fully capitalise on this recognition. Other countries, such as India, have marketed jacquard-woven stoles as jamdani, and luxury brands like Hermès have sold such products. Bangladesh must adopt an assertive “textile diplomacy” to protect its heritage and uphold jamdani’s authentic identity.
The way forward
The revival and globalization of Jamdani depend on embracing the steps outlined above. From diversifying products and modernising designs to promoting sustainable practices and leveraging GI recognition, these measures will ensure the survival and global appreciation of this exquisite craft.
Ultimately, the future belongs to handmade, sustainable, and environmentally friendly products. Jamdani has the potential to become a coveted item in global high fashion, setting it apart as a unique offering in the international market. This will not only preserve its heritage but also empower the artisan community and contribute to the nation’s economy.
With the right strategy, jamdani can secure its rightful place as a timeless treasure of Bangladesh, admired and cherished worldwide.