Nine-time Everest summiteer sees the sea for the first time in Cox’s Bazar
He has climbed Mount Everest nine times — including four times in just 15 days. Yet in his 28 years of life, despite reaching the highest point on Earth multiple times, he had never seen the sea. That dream has now come true for Nepal’s Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa in Cox’s Bazar. Sozib Mia shares more stories from his remarkable life.
Soaked in the rain, Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa walked into the Prothom Alo office accompanied by elder brother Tashi Lama and Bangladeshi Everest summiteer Ikramul Hasan Shakil. They had just come from an event at the Nepalese embassy in Dhaka and arrived in Karwan Bazar in the rain. How does Tashi, a native of the cool Himalayan climate, feel about rainy, muddy Dhaka?
When asked, he replied, "At first, the heat, the rain, and the wind—all of it felt very different. But now, none of that matters. What has touched me more than the weather is the warmth and hospitality of the people."
And what else?
He looked around and said with a smile, "Alu bhorta!"
Alu bhorta? The spicy mashed potato dish?
"I’ve tried many dishes, but I liked alu bhorta the most."
Hearing his younger brother Gyalzen mention alu bhorta, Tashi Lama chuckled. Shakil added, "Yesterday (14 July), I took them to our village in Gazipur. They really enjoyed walking around and exploring the area."
About three years ago, Shakil went on the 'Great Himalaya Trail' expedition. During that trip in Nepal, he met Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa, who served as his guide. They trekked together for 15 days through the remote trails of the Manaslu Circuit and Ruby Valley. That’s where their friendship began. This year, during their expedition from Cox’s Bazar to Everest, Gyalzen once again served as Shakil’s Sherpa. On 19 May, the two of them reached the summit together.
To showcase their journey, Shakil organised a three-day photo exhibition at the National Museum with support from the Nepalese embassy. The two Sherpa brothers arrived in Dhaka on 10 July to attend the event.
During his trip to Bangladesh, Gyalzen Sherpa got to experience several “firsts.” This is his first time traveling abroad by plane. Later he would be heading to Cox’s Bazar, where he would see the sea for the very first time. Both brothers were visibly excited at the prospect.
Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa said, “We are mountain people. We've spent our whole lives in the Himalayas. This is our first opportunity to see the ocean.”
Their bus to Cox’s Bazar was to leave at night. Before heading to Gazipur, they had left their bags at a house in Old Dhaka, so they needed to pick those up first. In the afternoon, Tashi Gyalzen also had a dental appointment in Jigatola. With such a tight schedule, there wasn’t much time to chat, so we quickly asked several questions about his life as a Sherpa and his record-setting expeditions.
His village is named Phortse
Phortse is the name of a small village in the Khumbu region of the Himalayas. Located about 3,840 meters above sea level, the village is famous for several reasons. It holds the distinction of being the village with the highest number of Everest summiteers in the world. Out of its 450 residents, 90 have reached the summit of Everest. Phortse is also home to the Khumbu Climbing Centre, where Sherpas and climbers from across Nepal receive training.
Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa was born in this village.
He grew up surrounded by snow, high altitudes, and the atmosphere of Everest. His father, Ang Shiring, worked as a porter, carrying heavy loads to Everest Base Camp. Later, he also worked as a Sherpa. His elder brother, Tashi Lama, eventually followed the same path into the Sherpa profession.
Tashi Gyalzen’s career as a Sherpa hasn’t been very long. The 28-year-old began his education at a local school and later completed his higher secondary studies at Khumjung Edmund Hillary Secondary School. In 2015, he enrolled in a college in Kathmandu for his undergraduate studies.
However, in 2017, when his father was injured in an accident, he returned to his village and started working as a trekking guide.
Gyalzen summited Everest for the first time in 2019. Since then, he has reached the summit almost every year—either from the Nepal side or the Tibet side. But he still vividly remembers his first climb: “I can still recall the feeling. Standing at the summit, it felt like I was standing above the clouds! That day changed my life.”
Tashi Gyalzen’s life truly has changed. After all, who else would take on the challenge of summiting Everest four times in just 20 days? And he didn’t just meet that goal—he did it in 15 days.
His record-setting journey began on 9 May. At the start of the Everest season, Sherpas are responsible for fixing ropes along the route. While working with the rope-fixing team, he summited Everest for the first time. He then reached the summit again on 14 May, for a third time on 19 May, and for a fourth on 23 May.
“This expedition wasn’t just about setting a record,” said Tashi Gyalzen. “It was also a personal challenge to test my physical and mental endurance. I believed I could do it—and I did.”
Beyond Everest, this son of the Himalayas has also conquered several other difficult peaks, including Cho Oyu, Manaslu, and Ama Dablam. His next goal, he says, is even more ambitious. But what exactly that is—he’s not ready to reveal just yet. And we didn’t press him.
He left with excitement in his heart, looking forward to seeing the sea for the first time.
(On 16 July, soon after arriving in Cox’s Bazar, Tashi Gyalzen Sherpa and his brother headed straight to the beach. He stood with his feet in the salty water, arms outstretched, and said, “I really loved Cox’s Bazar. I feel like staying here for a few days... but sadly, we don’t have the time right now!”)