‘Gol Talab’: 200 years on, people still swim in the pond of the Nawabs

Swimmer Faysal Ahmad from Keraniganj is training to swim across the ‘Bangla Channel’ from Teknaf to Saint Martin’s Island. To prepare for this long swim across the sea, he practices daily for about two hours in the ‘Gol Talab’ pond.

Golam Mostafa, originally from Gopalganj, works at Market Plaza in Old Dhaka’s Islampur and has bathed in this pond beside his workplace regularly for nearly 30 years. 

Sanjoy Ghosh lives in Tantibazar area of Old Dhaka. Every day from morning till noon, he sells matha (a yoghurt-based drink) at a stall near the entrance to Gol Talab pond.

Located on the Ahsan Ullah Road in Old Dhaka, the Gol Talab pond is a rare patch of tranquil greenery amid the crowded and concrete-filled chaos of the old city.

Hidden behind rows of multi-storey buildings, the pond is not easily visible. Locals fondly refer to it as the ‘Nawab Bari Pushkarini (pond of the Nawabs).

Situated west of Ahsan Manzil, the Gol Talab pond can be reached via Islampur Road, or through the Ahsan Ullah Road via Buckland Bund embankment passing in front of the Nawab family’s mansion.

The pond is surrounded by iron grates with a single entry gate on the eastern side. At the entrance, there is a set of descending steps leading to the water. Many local residents regularly bathe here. The entry fee, once Tk 5, has now increased to Tk 10.

Gol Talab is said to be one of the oldest ponds in Dhaka. Despite being called “Gol” (round), it is not perfectly circular but rather oval in shape, stretching north to south. The word talab comes from Urdu, referring to “water.”

While the exact date of its excavation is unknown, it is believed to have been dug by Nawab Abdul Bari. Later, Nawab Khwaja Alimullah purchased and renovated it in 1830.

A second round of excavation and renovation in 1886 gave the pond its present form. It turned into an integral part of the Nawabs’ splendour and became familiar among locals as Nawab Bari Pushkarini.

Since then the pond has been a venue for social gatherings, rituals, and recreation, considered one of Dhaka’s early centres of leisure.

For years, there were disputes and court cases over ownership of the pond among the Nawabs’ descendants. Due to lack of maintenance, the pond also gradually lost its charm. In 2007, following a Supreme Court order, the Moulvi Khwaja Abdullah Welfare Trust was granted ownership.

Since then, the pond has been managed by the Nawab Bari Angling Committee on behalf of the Trust’s beneficiaries, as indicated on a sign at the entrance.

Even today, Gol Talab pond remains an inseparable part of life for the residents of Old Dhaka. The pond is open to the public daily from 6:00 am to 10:00 pm.

During a recent visit there, swimmer Faysal Ahmad was seen preparing for a training session by the pond. He said, “There’s no other pond this large nearby. I’ve been practising here two hours every day for the past six months to get ready for the long swim across the Bangla Channel.”

Many others, like Golam Mostafa originally from Gopalganj, had come for their daily bath.

Khwaja Golam Hossain, a member of the pond’s welfare trust, explained that the Bangladesh Water Development Board is involved in the maintenance of the pond as part of the National Water Management Plan.

The water is regularly cleaned, and if necessary, refilled with WASA water to maintain its level. As the pond has no connection to external drains or sewers, its water remains clear.

Bathing with soap or shampoo inside the pond is prohibited to preserve this clarity. Separate arrangements for soap-and-shampoo use have been made near the pond.

Covering an area of 2.23 acres and 23 feet deep, Gol Talab is lined with coconut trees along its banks, alongside mango, neem, custard apple, and date trees, creating a lush green environment around the clear waters.

Also, fish are cultivated in the Gol Talab pond. At different times of the year, people can buy tickets to fish there with rods.

Amid Old Dhaka’s notorious traffic and clamour, standing by the Gol Talab pond evokes a sense of calm. It is more than just a body of water it feels like the heartbeat of Old Dhaka.

A witness to the city’s lifestyle, culture, and history, this serene blend of greenery and water still remains a cherished living relic of the past.